Starter · Russian
Herring Under a Fur Coat
I don't host often, but when I do, this is what I usually put out first. It gives everyone something to do with their hands while I finish the main.
Method
- 1.The whole dish hinges on cooked, cooled vegetables, so do this part ahead. Boil the potatoes, carrots and beetroot whole in their skins, in separate pans — beetroot stains anything it touches pink and you don't want pink potatoes. The potatoes and carrots want about 25 minutes, the beetroot closer to an hour. They're done when a knife slides in with no resistance.
- 2.Drain everything and let it cool completely. Peel the skins off — they slip off easily once cooled — and grate each vegetable on the coarse side of a box grater into three separate bowls. Keep them separate; the layers are the whole point.
- 3.Boil the eggs for nine minutes for a firm yolk, then cool, peel and grate them too. Grate the onion finely, salt it lightly and leave it to sit for five minutes to take the raw bite off.
- 4.Pat the herring fillets dry and chop them into small dice, about the size of a lentil. If yours are very salty, give them a quick rinse first — and if you can only find fillets in oil, that's fine too, just drain them well.
- 5.Now the layering, on a wide flat serving plate. Start with the herring, spread in an even disc the size of a small dinner plate. Scatter the grated onion over the top. Then a layer of potato, gently pressed down, and a thin, even layer of mayo spread over it with the back of a spoon.
- 6.Next a layer of carrot, then another whisper of mayo. Then a layer of egg — just the grated whites and yolks mixed together — and another thin layer of mayo. Finally the beetroot, in a thick even layer that covers everything so the whole thing turns a uniform, improbable purple-pink.
- 7.Finish with a generous covering of mayo over the top and smooth it with the back of a spoon. Cover the plate with cling film and refrigerate for at least four hours, ideally overnight. The flavours need that time to meet each other.
- 8.Before serving, tidy the edges and decorate the top however you like — I usually grate a little extra egg yolk over it, or scatter over some finely chopped dill. Slice it like a cake.
Notes
This scales up easily if you're cooking for more than one or two people. I sometimes double it just so I have lunch sorted.
A heavy pan makes a surprising amount of difference here. If you only own one good one, this is a good reason to dig it out.