Brine & Butter

Breakfast · Russian

Syrniki

Syrniki

Most weekday mornings I barely manage toast, so when I actually cook breakfast it has to be worth it. This one earns its place in the pan.

Method

  1. 1.These really do need proper tvorog — the Russian/Eastern European fresh curd cheese — if you can find it. Failing that, use well-drained full-fat ricotta or farmer's cheese; press it in a clean tea towel to squeeze out as much liquid as you can before you start. Wet cheese means wet batter and sad, flat syrniki.
  2. 2.Mash the cheese smooth with a fork in a mixing bowl. Beat in the egg, sugar, vanilla and a pinch of salt until everything is evenly combined.
  3. 3.Sprinkle over the flour and fold it in gently. You want just enough flour to bring it to a soft, slightly sticky dough that holds its shape when you pinch a ball between your fingers — too much and they'll turn rubbery.
  4. 4.Dust your hands and a board with flour. Scoop heaping tablespoons of the mixture, roll each one into a ball, then flatten into a thick disc about the size of a small biscuit. Don't make them too thin — they want to stay pillowy through the middle.
  5. 5.Heat a little butter and a splash of neutral oil in a heavy pan over medium heat. The oil stops the butter burning while you wait for the pan to come up to temperature.
  6. 6.Cook the syrniki in batches, a few at a time, for about three minutes a side until they're deep golden and a little crisp around the edge. Don't move them around; just let them sit and do their thing.
  7. 7.Serve hot with sour cream, a spoonful of jam — sour cherry is traditional but any red jam works — and honey for anyone with a sweeter tooth. A cup of strong tea on the side is the only other requirement.

Notes

A heavy pan makes a surprising amount of difference here. If you only own one good one, this is a good reason to dig it out.

Don't rush the early steps. I've tried, and it's never been worth it.

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