Soto Ayam

Method

1. 1.Put the chicken thighs in a deep pot, cover them with cold water, and bring to a gentle simmer. Skim off the grey foam that rises in the first few minutes — it's just protein, not dirt, but it clouds the broth if you leave it.
2. 2.Add the lemongrass, galangal, turmeric, garlic, shallots and salam leaves to the pot and let it tick away at a low simmer for about forty minutes, until the chicken is falling-apart tender and the broth has turned a deep, honest gold from the turmeric.
3. 3.Lift the chicken out onto a plate and let it cool until you can handle it. Shred the meat along the grain into rough pieces — don't be too neat about it. Strain the broth through a fine sieve and discard the aromatics.
4. 4.While the chicken simmers, cook the vermicelli according to the packet, drain, and rinse it under cold water so the noodles don't clump into a single mass.
5. 5.Boil the eggs for seven minutes so the yolks are just set, then peel and halve them. If they're a little jammy in the middle, all the better.
6. 6.To serve, divide the noodles between deep bowls and top with shredded chicken, a handful of beansprouts, a wedge of boiled egg, and a scattering of fried shallots and chopped celery leaves.
7. 7.Ladle the hot broth over everything and finish each bowl with a squeeze of lime and a spoonful of sambal on the side. The sambal is technically optional, but I've never once left it out.

Notes